Tuesday, October 12, 2010

Sweet Escape

Last week our Nepali teachers had us write poems in Nepali. (note: there’s nothing I dread more than writing poetry, well, besides improv) All week I was having severe anxiety about our poetry assignment. Writing a poem in a language I can’t yet think in proved to be quite a challenge so I wrote about a very prevalent issue in my life—my dog Jenny. With some broken Nepali and the help of a Nepali-English dictionary, I managed to communicate my bittersweet (tito-mitho) love for Jenny and my simultaneous feelings of compassion and resentment for him. My very elementary poem somehow won me first prize in my class, the only poetry award I have ever and will ever receive.

This weekend I escaped to the small town Dhulikhel, just two hours outside of Kathmandu. When we arrived we were all covered in a layer of dust from the bus ride, but no on cared because it was so rejuvenating to be breathing non-polluted air. Saturday morning I awoke to mountains that appeared to be floating in the clouds above sweeping green valleys of terraced rice fields. I was amazed that just a couple hours outside the city we could see the Himalayas. To be able to breathe AND see mountains… what a foreign concept. I realized that this was the Nepal I had been expecting and romanticizing in my head for so long. We spent the day outside on a 6 hour hike to Namobuddha, the site where a past Buddha sacrificed himself for a starving tigress.

I wish I could wake up to this every morning

View on our hike

Our hotel

The home stretch

Namobuddha!

I had a big day yesterday—I got my nose pierced and went to a Nepali wedding party. Both were very exciting experiences… The nose piercing probably needs no explanation but the Nepali wedding was like nothing I’ve seen before. It went something like bat mitzvah meets South Asian interior decorator meets in da club. The bride and groom sat in throne like chairs on a decorated platform at the front of the room watching the party from afar. Meanwhile a mini dance party to 50 cent was happening in the corner while others chowed down on some daalbhaat. My friend Iyla and I were fully clad in saris while many other guests were in jeans in t-shirts. It was all very confusing but a wonderful experience nonetheless. We unfortunately were unable to go to the actual wedding ceremony so I hope that I will be able to attend a traditional wedding before I leave.

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Wild and (Flea) Free

I’ve moved back into my family’s house and so far, great news—no fleas! I’ve loved being back with my family. My aamaa has been teaching me how to cook nepali food, which often takes place in the dark because of load shedding, making it extremely difficult to discern what exactly we’re cooking sometimes (although it’s usually safe to assume it’s daalbhaat). My dog Jenny however is still the devil. No one here likes Jenny, including my friends and Nepali teachers, who all talk about how crazy Jenny is. But my aamaa just adores him. People are so funny about their animals.

Today I feel like I had a real break through in my Nepali speaking abilities. We visited a gau called Khokana and our only assignment was to find out as much as we could about the village. I had two very successful conversations with some villagers and was able to learn about their daily lives, development in the village over the past ten years, farming and agriculture, problems they are experiencing in the village, and a little bit about their marriages. It was rewarding to be able to converse with such receptive villagers. Speaking Nepali opens up a whole new world here, taking down the wall that divides bideshis (foreigners) from Nepalis.

Lately life here has been exhausting. After a month of living here things aren’t any less werid… if that makes sense. It’s still strange to see cows eating trash on the side of the road, femur breaking pot holes aren’t any less scary, the smell of shit isn’t any less potent, getting attacked by monkeys remains an ever present fear, the pollution is just as suffocating and seeing all the suffering doesn’t get any easier. With that said, I couldn’t imagine being anywhere else right now. I finally feel a sense of purpose in being here and I’m so excited to (slowly) be adjusting to the culture.

This weekend I saw a bollywood version of a western movie called Annjana Annjani. It was a highly entertaining love story that took place in both New York and San Fransisco, portraying all Americans as fat and ugly and America as a giant desert. There was also a cheating American whore named Rachel. Not the most flattering portrayal of Americans and Rachels a like. Despite the extremely offensive suicide and gay jokes that would never fly in American movies, I was thoroughly entertained. Hindi movies double as a great escape and cultural experience. For just three dollars a film, I plan to see many more Hindi films in the future.